Are Your Timepieces FrankenClocks? Crucial Observations for Connoisseurs
Going the Distance: Uncovering the Truth Behind the FrankenClock
Ever stumbled upon the term FrankenClock in the realm of clock collecting? Well then, let me shed some light on this hidden gem of clock enthusiasts.
Imagine buying a clock, hoping every mechanical piece and ornament down to the last nut and bolt is the real deal—only to find out later it's a hodgepodge of parts from different clocks. Now, imagine your feelings of disappointment or being cheated. Sound familiar? Many collectors have gone through this very predicament. A clock filled with mismatched or non-original parts is known, in the clock world, as a FrankenClock.
A True Tale - The Gustav Becker Two-Weight Vienna Regulator
Let me share a little story about my own Vienna regulator clock, which I purchased in 2016. After a quick look, it seemed swell, kept impeccable time, and had undergone the necessary restoration, cleaning, and repairing. But was it a 100% original clock? Nah, not even close.
Here's a quick rundown of the juicy details I've unearthed about my Gustav Becker 8-day time and strike wall clock:
The Glass Panels
When it came, I knew nothing about whether the glass panels (the front door glass and side lights) were authentic. Shipping mishap be damned! The case, however, withstood the damage, though I needed to glue it back together. When I took the case to a glass repair shop, they asked these sneaky questions: "Why is the side glass thicker than the front glass?" and "Why were finishing nails used to secure the panels?" Hmmm, clocky detective work alert! Judging by their questions, it seemed there might be some doubts about the panels' originality. So, I replaced them with some swanky new glass.
The Weights
The clock's two weights, at first glance, looked identical. But upon closer inspection, minute differences popped up in the hook designs. Seeing as Gustav Becker was known for precision, it's pretty unlikely they sent mismatched weights out of the factory. So, I'm guessing one (or both) is a replacement.
The Movement
The movement seemed super fitting for the period and case, but is it the original one? The seller had already made it clear that some parts were missing, such as the star wheel/snail, strike hammer, and rod. The gathering pallet was simply bonker-bent, preventing the strike side from functioning, so it was harvested for parts.
To fix my prized clock, I snagged a replacement movement from Poland. Awesome, right? Well, not so much. I thought it was a dead ringer, being only 16 years newer. But, alas, it had subtle differences: thinner plates, redesigned lever springs, a thicker minute arbor shaft, and incompatible strike components. Disillusioned, I swapped out the entire movement, but I kept the original one to display for all to see.
Other Swaps and Repairs
- I replaced the spun brass dial bezel because it was bent in shipping—a period-correct replacement, natch.
- Some trim pieces, like the bottom finials, may be later additions. I can't say for sure where they came from, though.
- The bottom center finial is a replacement. I found wormwood holes in it, but no sign of worm damage in the case.
- The clock came with Ogee clock hands instead of Vienna regulator hands—not correct for this clock. My search for Vienna regulator hands was excruciatingly long due to their rarity. Eventually, I found some from Poland.
So, yeah, my prized clock is a bit of a FrankenClock. But I've learned a lot from this experience, and it's still a damn good learning tool.
Lessons Galore
Though it's not 100% original in every way, this clock has been a tremendous learning experience for me. Collectors out there might have FrankenClocks in their collection without even realizing it—a sad reality. Reputable auction houses usually disclose repairs or rebuilds, but online listings aren't always reliable. Fingers crossed the seller is honest about a clock's history, and they're transparent about any missing or replaced parts.
Caution, Clock Warning Signs
When buying a clock, especially online, it's essential to proceed with caution. Carefully examine all available photos, looking for inconsistencies in the case, dial, hands, movement, and other components. Ask the seller direct questions about the originality of the clock, repairs, or missing parts, and request additional photos if anything seems unclear. If possible, compare the clock to known examples from reference books, collector forums, online image searches, or auction archives.
Be particularly wary of listings that provide vague descriptions, low-quality images, or no mention of service history. A clock that looks pristine may have been heavily restored, while one advertised as "original" may contain replacement parts that significantly affect its value. If purchasing in person, inspect the clock thoroughly—check for signs of over-restoration, mismatched components, or modern hardware securing old parts.
And, for the love of clockwork, watch out for those insidious Robertson or Phillips screws on a century-old clock. Run!
The More You Know
Arming yourself with knowledge is your best defense. The more you know about a particular clock model, the better equipped you'll be to recognize potential red flags before making a purchase. In this clock world, knowledge is power—a power that can prevent you from succumbing to a FrankenClock.
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